Pots are a bit like roses. You know – popular, pretty much everyone has at least a couple sitting somewhere in the garden, terrific when done well but often a bit sub-par. I do see lots of examples of pots being used beautifully, but all too often one also sees collections of mismatched pots with half-dead plants – begun with the best intentions but somehow never quite working. So what goes wrong?
Here are a few of my thoughts on how to make pots work. I’ll leave out the whole ‘keep them fed and watered’ lecture, this is more about using them for good visual effect.
1. Go LARGE. Get the biggest pot/s you can afford. Large pots don’t dry out as quickly (therefore improving your plants’ survival rates) and provide more nutrients over time through their increased volume of growing media. Yes, your upfront cost will be much greater, including needing more potting mix to fill it, but think of it as an investment – they look great and your plants won’t die. And, relevant to Wellington readers, they don’t blow over, at least if you stay away from tall, narrow ones!
2. Be CONSISTENT. Your pots don’t necessarily all have to be the same size or shape, but choose a unifying theme and stick with it. Generally, where the pots will be seen together, I would select one material or colour theme, and keep to that. Set them up in clusters if they are of differing sizes, or space them at regular intervals if they are identical.
3. Keep it SIMPLE.
Buxus is one of the most forgiving of container plants. The classic simplicity of a clipped buxus ball will always look good, plus it will take all sorts of hardship. Mine is on the south side of the house and gets no sun at all for several months in winter, and no additional watering in summer, poor thing.
If you want colour, put your pot/s somewhere sunny and work out a scheme.
This was a punnet of lime nicotiana seedlings which I planted in early summer. Great on its own, this also looked lovely amongst a group I had going, including herbs, a lemon tree, white geraniums, white verbena, yellow polyanthus, and a lavender ‘Sidonie’. (As usual a few interlopers arrived – but were allowed to stay if they didn’t spoil the effect).
I have worked out a simple year-round plan for the large green pots on the deck, which involves minimal work. In early summer I plant the perennial petunia, ‘Bubblegum’, which flowers non-stop for about six months. Then ‘Bubblegum’ goes into the garden bed for a rest over winter, and the tulip bulbs go in. I don’t mind at all that there are a couple of months where the pots look bare. As winter ends I enjoy scanning the soil for the first sign of the growing leaf tips.
4. Move them around.
Pots don’t just have to sit either side of the front door. Try putting them into the actual garden beds. You can cover a bare spot, create a lovely focal point, or highlight a plant that might otherwise be overwhelmed in the border.
Mind you, in relation to point no.1, big pots do get very heavy. I once persuaded my husband that all our large pots needed to be rearranged, and its a wonder we didn’t both end up being carried away on stretchers. Since then I have invested in a trolley, which makes things much easier.
So, I hope I have persuaded you. If you have lots of small, mismatched pots, choose a couple of your favourites and bring them inside for houseplants. Give away the rest and start again! And finally, please, use premium quality potting mix!